It’s time for “Day 5” of a recap of my recent “bucket list” vacation to the Tuscan region of Italy.  I hope you’re enjoying the sights and sounds of Italy as I relay them to you each week.  We’re more than halfway through the trip, and I hope you’ll stay until the end.  Let’s get back to our Tuscan adventure!

Day 5:  Sights of Pienza, an Olive Oil Tasting, and Roof-Top Cocktails in Castelmuzio

The sun was gently warming the stones and bricks of Castelmuzio as we awoke this morning, both of us finally sleeping through the night.  Not a cloud in the sky as I enjoyed my morning Italian coffee (I’m getting used to drinking it black with only sugar) and glanced over at our laundry drying on a rack in the corner of the patio.  Nothing could be heard but the cooing of doves and songbirds overhead as they darted in and out of holes in the wall stones, all of us preparing for the day ahead.

On the docket for today is a tour of the historic hermitage on the Moricciani family property, a private class on olive oil making (and tasting), and some shopping in Pienza – all within ten minutes of our home base of Castelmuzio.

We arrived at the farm, said “Buongiorno” to Luciano (who was busily working, moving in and out of farm sheds), and were soon introduced to Antonella, our guide for the morning.  Funny, opinionated, and very Italian, she was a font of local knowledge and a delight.

We strolled into town, stopped at the city gates, and learned a little more about Pienza, which was previously known as Corsignano, the birthplace of Pope Pius II.  He had the entire town redesigned and turned into the “perfect” Renaissance city during his tenure.  They completed the entire project in only four years and renamed it Pienza (it’s good to be the Pope), and Antonella sprinkled her history lessons with funny stories about Isabella, Carlo, Luciano, and even Carlotta.

We walked outside of town down a cypress-lined lane to a small chapel used mainly by the local townspeople.  We were invited to stop back whenever we wanted, as we were told “you are all part of the Moricciani family now.”  I lit two candles of remembrance (one for Leigh’s father and one for my own) and we departed.

We then descended a steep stone pathway to the hermitage (a UNESCO World heritage site).  A hermitage is a system of caves and caverns that were used by priests, monks, and pilgrims during the Middle Ages (Pienza was on the “Pilgrim’s Road” to Rome – a trip many good Catholics made at least once during their lifetime).  This set of caverns has been used by people off and on from the time period of the Renaissance all the way through World War II.  Carlo and Luciano discovered these caves as part of their property and Carlo spends each off-season clearing out and excavating more of the site.  He even turns over any artifacts he finds to the Pienza museum.  There is no money or recognition in this for the family (as the caves are on private property), but Carlo feels it is his civic duty to preserve the history and heritage of the area.  Amazing!

Then it was a pleasant walk up the hill back towards town.  As a cook, I was astounded by all of the wild herbs around us.  There were fresh bay leaves in the trees, while wild fennel and mint sprouted up from the ground underfoot.  One only needed to step a few yards away from their own home to have amazingly fresh ingredients to cook with – all provided by Mother Nature.

Antonella then explained the “rules” for ordering a “real” Italian coffee (and to not look like a tourist).  Always order before 11:30 AM – stand at the bar (sitting actually costs extra), and no cappuccino in the afternoon (only the morning – if at all – it’s usually espresso).  She then cut us loose in a local coffee shop to try it on our own.  I ordered an espresso, completed my transaction (all in Italian), and sipped from my tiny cup with confidence as I stood with other locals at the bar.

We then returned to the farm and were given tasting lessons in mastering olive oil.  The difference between “bad” oil and “good” oil is readily apparent – once one knows what to look, smell, and taste for.  I may never buy vegetable oil again.  We then sampled more olive oil on bread – and of course – out came the wine for the table.

After a few bottles had been happily emptied, the group broke up and Leigh and I walked back into town to window shop and take in the beautiful sunshine of the afternoon.  We stopped in at a local café and sat outside for a light lunch.  Leigh had a Panini di porchetta (pork sandwich) and I had another sampler plate of dried meats and cheeses (called “tagliere”) – I just can’t get enough of that stuff!  We comfortably ordered and conversed in Italian with our waitress, feeling more and more like locals on a day trip rather than tourists.  On the way out of town, I even stopped for a lemon gelato, and we slowly strolled arm-in-arm back to the farm.

We then headed for one of my “must dos” of the trip.  My brother (who lives in California) is famous for finding movie locations, then recreating the exact shot from the film, but with him in it (instead of the actors from the movie).  The Val D’Orcia area has been used as locations for many motion pictures (including ‘The English Patient’), but I was looking for something else – the long, winding, cypress-dotted road that led to the home of Maximus Decimus Meridius (play by actor Russell Crowe) from the movie ‘Gladiator’.  On our morning tour, I thought I had spotted it, and Carlotta confirmed that I was correct, so Leigh and I drove down to Agriturismo Terrapille (the name of the actual farm), parked the car, and descended down a steep dirt driveway that twisted through the olive groves.  We emerged into a wide field – and there it was, right in front of us.  I had brought along a still frame from the movie for reference, so we took our time – and with me smiling wide and Leigh manning the camera – we got the shot!

 

It was then back home to Castelmuzio for some down time before dinner.  We opened the door and found that the apartment had been given a mid-week cleaning (is there anything that Isabella and Carlotta haven’t done for us?)  There were even more fresh baked goods on our table!  The surprises and joys of this trip abound.

Everyone from Cretaiole was coming over to “our town” for dinner tonight, so we headed up the cobblestone hill to the restaurant – Locanda de Casalmustia – and were in for yet another surprise from Isabella and Carlo.  We ventured up to the top floor of the three-story building, but were then beckoned further on by the staff to ascend two sets of ladders that emerged out on the rooftop.  Here, there was a patio, strung with lights, high above the rest of town.  To our right, the sun was gently setting on the horizon – and to our left, a full moon was rising to greet the night.  With a bird’s eye view of the entire town and surrounding valley, the staff passed around canapes and glasses of bubbly Prosecco, and we toasted another glorious day in the splendor of Tuscany from the roof before descending for dinner.

Leigh started with a fresh salad, dressed with extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  I had anchovies, which came in a Mason jar and could be spread on hunks of bread with fresh butter.  Both were tasty.  We then moved on to pastas (the primo).  Leigh had a trio of ravioli, dressed with fennel, parsley and pine nuts, and pepper (respectively).  I had the spinach ravioli in a sage and brown butter sauce.  Delicious!

I again moved on to the secondi (Leigh had better discretion), and this time had strips of beef (cooked medium rare), dressed with red peppercorns, a hot olive oil, and covered by a thin curtain of fat called “lardo” (which literally melted into a flavorful nothingness in my mouth with each bite).  It was the best steak I have ever tasted – hands down.  We washed it all down with a bottle of house red wine, and Leigh finished off her meal with a glass of hazelnut liqueur (similar to Frangelico), while I had an espresso.  We emerged three hours later into a cool Italian evening, satisfied, happy, and only steps away from our apartment.

“I’ve decided,” said Leigh, smiling at the moonlit night.   “I think I’m in love with Italy.”

I’d have to agree.

 

NEXT WEEK:  Day 6 – It’s My Birthday!  An Unbelievable Wine Tour, Pasta Making, and a Communal Meal for the Ages