Last weekend, my wife and I joined some friends for a weekend adventure to the Great White North, visiting our neighbors in Canada for a few days of winery visits and good company.

We left Maryland last Thursday, and the drive north was full of fall color and beautiful weather.  The trip to Canada is only about six hours from our neck of the woods, so it was the perfect time of year for a fall drive.  We stopped in the small New York ski town  of Ellicottville for a late lunch at the Ellicottville Brewing Company, where we feasted on bison burgers, African peanut soup (actually quite tasty), and chicken parmesan wraps, all washed down with some wonderful locally brewed beers (the chocolate-orange ale was particularly nice).

As the sun set and the full harvest moon rose across the autumnal-colored horizon, we chugged through downtown Buffalo and crossed into Canada at the Peace Bridge before reaching our destination of Thorold, Ontario (just outside of Niagara).  We settled into a four-bedroom, three-bath house we had rented for the weekend, and after a quick stopover at the local grocery store for breakfast supplies, it was time for some much-needed rest to get ready for a full weekend of winery hopping.

DAY 1

The sun rose over a frosty landscape, and after a morning walk and some obligatory Tim Horton’s coffee, we headed out to our first stop at historic Niagara Falls.  The day was calm, mild (low 60’s for temps), and sunny – perfect for viewing the thundering water as it crashed over in three places: Horseshoe Falls, the “American” Falls, and Bridal Veil Falls.  There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the crowds were sparse – a perfect time to visit and marvel at the power of Mother Nature.

The Niagara wine region boasts over fifty wineries within a twenty-minute drive of the falls, and while I expected to find nothing but sweeter white wines and ice wines, I was pleasantly surprised at the variety of bold reds that were also offered.  We first visited Monastery Cellars, a working monastery right near the falls that also produces wines.  A quick tasting (and purchase of a bottle) and we then headed east to check out more wineries.

Our next stop was Chateau des Charmes, whose main building resembles a sprawling French villa.  We sampled several Cab Francs, Cabernet Sauvignons, and some dry whites, along with some cheeses and a wonderful lavender and lemon-infused honey (which was spectacular against the bite of a crisp, blue cheese).

The exchange rate was very much in our favor (about 72 cents U.S against the Canadian dollar), so it was like getting a 30% discount on everything we sampled and purchased.

More wineries followed.  Amo, Colaneri (which I referred to as “theme park” Italian), and then Iniskillin, where we sat in Adirondack chairs outside and lounged in the perfect afternoon weather.  Every now and again we heard the “boom” of distant cannons, which we were later told were used to keep the birds away from the harvest, as the miles and miles (I should say kilometers) of vineyards were in full fruit, just waiting to be picked.  We ended our day of wine tasting at Reif Estates before heading off for dinner at the Old Winery Restaurant & Wine Bar, where we grazed on wood-fired pizzas and enjoyed boisterous conversation as we reviewed the day’s adventures. 

DAY 2

Another beautiful Canadian morning greeted us as we prepared for another day of winery touring.  On this day we traveled west, starting at Vineland Estates.  Along with our wine, we pulled warm hunks from a freshly baked bread loaf as we sat in the rustic barn and enjoyed the morning.  It was then across the road to Meglomaniac, where we sat on the balcony (munching on warm olives, garlic bread, and cheeses) and watched out over the expansive grounds as the workers harvested grapes and brought them into the winery for processing.  The harvest here alone would be over 22 tons of grapes, all destined to be fermented, bottled, and enjoyed.  It was then onto Cave Spring, Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery, Henry of Pelham, and finally, 13^th Street, where we mingled with an upcoming wedding party and sat around warming fire-pits as the sun slowly set in the west.

Tonight’s meal was at Sahlia Thai in nearby St. Catharines, where we feasted on Tom Kha soup, spicy beef, and crispy wings.

Back at our rented house, the neighbors were having a party as well, and the music pulsed the evening hours away as they were preparing what appeared to be a full goat on the spit, roasting in the yard.  Even the locals were taking advantage of the perfect fall weather and moonlit nights.

DAY 3

After a late breakfast, it was time to pack up and head home.  The border was quite crowded crossing back into the United States, and we also hit the traffic of the home football game of the Buffalo Bills, but we were soon headed south and towards home, taking in the autumn colors (which were in their peak form).  We stopped for lunch in Pennsylvania at a barbeque joint called Gio’s, housed in a local gas station, where we enjoyed plates of brisket, pulled pork, and smoked chicken.  Don’t let appearances fool you.  Pretty good barbeque for a fueling stop.

All in all, it was a glorious weekend, filled with good food, good wine, and great friends.  It was the kind of weekend that makes one want to plan an annual trip.  If you’re into wineries, the Niagara region is a great place to spend a few days of sampling and savoring.